In praise of lovage

I cannot think that, in those ranks of little herb jars in the supermarket, I have ever seen lovage. We grow it, and I am more and more conscious of its virtues. All I can possibly say about it is that it is somewhere between mint and coriander and celery, unlikely though that sounds, but it has a very assertive identity of its own. Peter uses it as an essential ingredient of Northern Pesto (with mint and parsley). I used it where an Italian would use sage the other day, with butter, as a sauce for pumpkin gnocchi. I used it as a herb with a beef stew, and it was lovely. It’s good with eggs. I bet it’s good with pork. Perhaps it is one of those herbs where only fresh will do? Otherwise it is hard to understand why nobody uses it.

One Response to “In praise of lovage”

  1. The Dramaturg Says:

    Useful in Roman cooking - as levisticum - as we found from a recipe from Hadrian’s villa: cook pork or chicken in a pot with 2 tbs each of olive oil, vinegar, Thai fish sauce (in lieu of garum), lovage, garlic and a little water, simmering until the sauce has evaporated and the meat browned, then add water with cornflour to thicken.

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