I cannot think that, in those ranks of little herb jars in the supermarket, I have ever seen lovage. We grow it, and I am more and more conscious of its virtues. All I can possibly say about it is that it is somewhere between mint and coriander and celery, unlikely though that sounds, but it has a very assertive identity of its own. Peter uses it as an essential ingredient of Northern Pesto (with mint and parsley). I used it where an Italian would use sage the other day, with butter, as a sauce for pumpkin gnocchi. I used it as a herb with a beef stew, and it was lovely. It’s good with eggs. I bet it’s good with pork. Perhaps it is one of those herbs where only fresh will do? Otherwise it is hard to understand why nobody uses it.