We have a fairly special dinner tomorrow night; the first feet of a procession of guests over the coming week. We were thinking about wine, that it was the sort of occasion where we get a nice bottle or two out of the cellar rather than the usual rough & ready rioja. ‘Have we still got that Chateau Lynch-Bages?’ I said. The bottle in question came my way in 1992, when there was a conference on Ireland and Aquitaine in Bordeaux, which was bankrolled by les grands vignerons de Bordeaux, in particular, Lynch-Bages, which of course, enshrines in its name a fortunate Irish Wild Goose of the 18th century. There was an end of conference party which was supposed to be a tasting session, at which the wild Irish got absolutely plastered on some of the finest wines in the world, a depressing spectacle. Anyway, we were given, with some ceremony, a leaving present of a bottle of Chateau Lynch-Bages 1990, with stern instructions to keep it for twenty years. ‘It is very rough’, we were told earnestly, ‘but it will be one of our great wines’. Said bottle has gone about with us through our various moves for all this time, and is approaching its use by date. We looked it up on Google, and discovered that it is currently worth £300. What does one do with a bottle of wine worth £300? What, strictly speaking, is worth in this context? You can’t swop it for a fuel bill or anything. I must say, the idea of drinking it worries me a bit, not quite dissolving orient pearls &c, but it still seems like too much. But if you don’t drink it, what do you do with it?