When we went to the farm-shop the other day, rejoicing in our newfound freedom to leave the house, we found that Seville oranges had come into season. I have just made quite a lot of marmalade, a process which, as usual, lent new shades and depth to my understanding of the word ’sticky’. Marmalade is funny stuff. I have a Marmalade Theory which is highly perfectionist and rather detailed, the Professor has a Marmalade Theory which is at the opposite end of the spectrum and could be summarised as ‘boil it all up and see what happens’, both of us are capable of producing delicious, though quite different, marmalades, or sometimes, in both cases, marmalades which aren’t so nice, from which I conclude that there is a Marmalade Goddess who waves her sticky wand where & when she sees fit. This is a particularly good batch with a deep, intense bitter orange flavour. Not all the oranges have gone into marmalade — if you are within reach of Seville oranges, let me assure you that if you make an oldfashioned lemon curd (lemon juice, zest, butter, sugar) with Seville oranges, fill it into a sweet shortcrust pastry case and briefly recook so as to marry the ingredients, the resultant orange tart is a truly wonderful thing, and since we have a guest next weekend, I have kept some oranges back for the purpose. Chicken and Seville oranges is another good combination — in fact, if the wretched things were in the shops for more than about a fortnight, I’m sure I’d think of endless things to do with them.